How to Choose Your German Shepherd Puppy

If you are considering acquiring a German Shepherd Puppies, this is the most delicate step. You will find yourself in front of a delicate problem to solve.

Indeed, once the choice of the breeder carried out, which puppy to choose in the range? Which of these little balls of hair, all more adorable than each other, will you keep?

Many factors come into play and we will try to give you some tips for maximum guarantees.

The choice of breeding is essential

First of all, check with the club to get selected addresses.

Most often, you will be directed to amateur farms that produce dogs for the sole purpose of improving the breed, and for their own pleasure.

In these cases, it is not a question of profitable business; many are barely recovering their expenses.

But they have the pleasure of producing “seed of champion”, from adults selected with rigor and already awarded.

Almost always, it is in these small farms that we meet the most beautiful subjects.

Do not rush and go see many people. The current must pass between you and the other party. You will be confident and he will be sure that his dog will find in you the ideal master.

Inspect all the photo books that will be presented to you, look at the awards, you will see the quality of breeding and the dominant trait of the animal you will acquire.

Some produce lighter subjects than others, or larger animals with greater aggression. Proportionality criteria may also come into play.

In an amateur breeding, you can be almost certain that the litters will not be pushed and that the breeder will be careful not to overload the mother by immediately eliminating the weakest puppies.

German Shepherd Puppy

The selection of the puppy

Do not expect to find an available staff on the spot (or you will only have what others did not want).

On the best farms, they are held several months in advance (this is already a guarantee of quality and seriousness). You will have to wait your turn.

At the time of birth of your litter, try to quickly see the puppies. It is still early to make a selection, but you can get an idea.

The most vigorous , lively, mischievous, and resourceful animal must be preferred . It is the guarantee of a healthy temperament and a great love of life. It is also a sign of good health.

If you can, bring a friend who knows the dogs well or a specialist that you can compensate. He may eventually discover a hidden defect or anomaly, although it is difficult.

It’s more than a question of flair.

If you want to make your German Shepherd a good guard dog, try a little experiment. As you approach the brood, strike sharply and loudly in your hands.

Choose preferably those who do not fear and instead show curiosity, trying to pitch ears.

Also check that the lugs have been removed at birth and that the tail does not move too much. It could mean a bad attachment.

The German shepherd does not complete his development until around 2 years old. It is therefore very difficult to choose, for sure, the best of the range.

But these different tips should allow you to avoid many setbacks.

The quarrels of sex

There is still an important point to define before the purchase. Are you going to buy a male or a female? There is not one sex better than another.

Just know that a female will need more attention. It will be necessary to watch it during the heat, to take care of the maternity, to feed the little ones, etc.

On the other hand, she is often more graceful, more affectionate and calm than the male, fighter, proud warrior and always ready to “run the girls”.

More asocial, the male is better able to be the only dog ​​in the house and to live in a quiet and withdrawn family.

As for physical qualities and guard instinct, there is no difference. The female compensates for her lower height with an iron will and extraordinary nerve impulse.

It is essentially a matter of taste and capacity. Indeed, does not turn into a breeder (even casual) who wants!

Baby care and education requires time, patience and skills that not everyone has.

Should Horses be Left Inside or Outside The Field Shelters?

Horses in Stable (Field Shelter)

A combination of both could be the ideal formula for both free running and overweight, and protection from cold, rain or snow during the winter season.

With the arrival of low temperatures, many people wonder if it is better to keep the horses inside or outside the field shelters. To answer this question, we will try to summarize the advantages and disadvantages of each option. In addition, we give you some tips to prepare the environment in which you will shelter your horses.

In the boxes or outdoors? Comparison of advantages and disadvantages

On the one hand, raising horses outdoors means respecting their natural way of life and giving them more freedom. We must not forget that equines are independent beings, ready to survive in nature. Training and training them does not change their nature or the needs and desires inherent in it.

Keeping your horses outdoors also helps to maintain a healthy weight and maintain daily physical activity. Non-athletic horses reared in field shelters (stables) grow more easily, and are more vulnerable to diseases associated with obesity.

But living outdoors can also pose a risk to the health of our equines. In many countries, winter creates unfavorable conditions for the development and survival of horses. In addition, in the wildest areas, loose horses are more vulnerable to potential predator attacks.

Although some equines manage to adapt to the extreme cold, this should not be understood as a rule that concerns all species. The horses are from temperate climates. This is why very low temperatures and climatic hazards can affect their health.

If we want to raise horses in dedicated environments, we must offer them the optimal conditions for their development. In places where winters are very cold, this means building field shelters (stables) where they can be sheltered and protected.

So, is it better to keep the horses in the field shelters (stables) or outside?

In their natural habitat, horses live outdoors and have the freedom to move when they want or want. However, they could also choose to stay warm in the face of climatic hazards, such as rain, wind, snow or extreme cold. In other words, as soon as they need it, horses seek shelter to avoid being exposed to the weather.

Therefore, it is best to leave the horses outside when weather conditions are favorable. In this way, we manage to give our horses the freedom they need, without endangering their health and well-being.

Tips for preparing your horse’s boxing

As we can see, the field shelters (stables) are our allies to protect our horses and keep them healthy. However, they must be provided with care and dedication, so that they are in optimal conditions for the development of horses.

Checking the stability of the structure

Before winter, it is essential to check the structure of the field shelters (stables) and make sure they are ready for the animals. When checking the roof, we must make sure that there are no cracks or holes that allow water to leak or cold to enter.

Each stable must have a space where the horse can sleep and rest. C and place should be warm, clean and well ventilated to prevent moisture build-up. It is also advisable to leave a blanket at the horse’s disposal, or to cover it directly at night.

Good hygiene is crucial to your horse’s health

In addition to being well isolated, horse field shelters (stables) must always be kept clean. Daily housekeeping will be essential to prevent the accumulation of impurities and food debris, and to prevent the proliferation of micro-organisms.

The stable should also have good ventilation and good lighting to fight against the concentration of mold or bacteria. In winter, or during very rainy seasons, the humidity of the air is more intense. Therefore, we must be vigilant and check daily cleaning field shelters (stables).

Nourish and hydrate during the winter

Another essential care at the onset of cold is to ensure that horses receive balanced nutrition and proper hydration. In winter, equines will need more food. Their bodies must have a reserve of energy to maintain their active metabolism and protect it from the cold.

We will also have to pay attention to their hydration during the coldest season of the year. L are horses in the field shelters (stables) or outside must have the fresh, clean water on hand throughout the day. In addition, water must be protected from the weather to prevent contamination.

5 Tips to Make Eating a Difficult Cat

Indeed, it must be quite frustrating for but, there is always ways to improve and still time to make your kitten that willingly eats what is given. Of course, like us, they have their preferences and refuse certain foods they do not like (do you remember spinach when you were little?). Here are some pointers to keep in mind for our readers if, your kitten or cat does not want to eat anything! 

1. The Basic of Nutrition

First, it is important to remember the difference between a complete and a complementary food: 

A complete food contains a variety of ingredients and additives that can be synthetic or natural, depending on the. These recipes contain the nutrients your pet needs to be fit. Croquettes are all complete foods, making them the food of choice for most masters. They also have the advantage of keeping well, and of forcing your pet to chew hard foods. This has a very important “toothbrush” effect for keeping teeth healthy.

A supplementary food is a delicacy that is complementary, as its name suggests. It does not contain all the necessary nutrients for your pet. Its taste and texture appeal to most of our cats. This is where it gets bored, because the majority of packets and boxes of pies are complementary foods. So, if your cat eats only this, pay attention to deficiencies and health problems…

2.  Medical Reasons

This is easily detected by your veterinarian who can, if necessary, make a diagnosis and provide you with the appropriate treatment. We invite you to make an appointment as soon as possible to check this point. Once the medical reasons are eliminated, we must look at what may be happening at the behavioral level.  

3. How Does The Kitten Build His Taste?

 We tend to say that the baby cat can open up to new flavors until the age of 6 months.  It should be noted however that the first 2-3 months are particularly important and that at 3 months, there is already a lot of acquired. Ideally, the family where the cat grows (whether in private homes or breeders) must have a lot of food tested on the baby. It should also be known that her tastes are influenced by the way the mother was fed during breastfeeding: for example, if she ate chicken nuggets, it is quite possible that the kitten will mostly enjoy the tastes of poultry. 

4. Make a Food Palatable

For a cat to end up agreeing to eat a food, do not scold him or shout if he balks. This kind of punishment will only cause anxiety: the animal will be stressed and afraid every time he sees the food. In other words, he is unlikely to eat it one day! 

On the contrary, we must make the food appetite, that is to say seductive for his taste buds.

5. If nothing helps…

 If medical reasons are ruled out, you have tried different brands and tastes, Appetin, salmon oil or broth do not interest your cat, it is possible that a deeper behavioral reason is to be found. In this case, we advise you to call on an expert near you to try to identify where the problem comes from: does this date from early childhood? Is the stress coming from the move and the changes it has caused?

Good luck! 

You can read more detials here: https://petcatsupply.com/

Useful Cat Furniture And Designs

cat hammock

Tired of common furniture for your cat? Do you want originality and fun cat furniture to look at while being useful for your companion? You are in the right place!

You will find in this article a list of ideas to decorate your home or apartment according to your tastes while taking into account the needs of your little hairy protégé!

Cat Tree

The cat tree is a must for your little ball of hair if you want to prevent your cat is perched everywhere on your shelves by reversing everything in their path! Between modular, design, natural or rope-shaped cat trees, you have a whole range of choices for your beloved cat!

Cat basket

You probably know that a cat spends the majority of his time sleeping, so it is crucial to offer him a basket or cat bed adapted to his size! You have the choice between baskets with roof or a simple open bed; in any case, if it can be embedded in the design of the room, it’s all good!

Hammock for cats

Same as for baskets, cat hammock allow your cat to find the perfect place to fall asleep! The advantage is that you can put hammocks everywhere, under tables, chairs, on walls…

Cat litter cabinet

Specially designed for apartment cats, a cat toilet house allows for many things. First, it retains the unpleasant odors of cat litter by containing it in the furniture, but also prevents litter from leaving the tray because the entrance is high. And finally, litter design furniture can accommodate perfectly in a room as normal furniture.

Cat games

Playing is the second favorite activity of cats after sleeping, so games and cat toys are a good idea to channel your cat’s energy! Because remember, a frustrated cat who can not get busy will quickly make you understand at night by coming to wake you! Note however that the best way to have a game for cheap cat is to build it yourself, which is relatively simple if you can take the time to do it.

Other

That’s all that does not fit in the other categories but that is original and design, tables designed for your cats, claw furniture, a sofa with tunnels … So many nice furniture to look at and useful for your pet!

If you have other ideas of cat furniture at once design and original, do not hesitate to post a little comment so that we can add it to the article!

5 Tips to Encourage Your Cat to Eat

Cat to Eat

Cats are known to be really tough on food. If your cat does not want to touch his meal while he is healthy and his bowl has not been moved (the cats adore their little habits), then all you have to do is try one of these 5 tips!

1. Warm up your food

You know, cats have a very keen sense of smell. Thus, they hate the cold food because it does not emit enough odors. So, remember to take out the mash from the fridge a few minutes before giving it to him. You can also warm it for a few seconds in the microwave to exhale all the smells and make it more appetizing to your cat’s eyes.

2. Add salmon oil

For fish- loving cats, salmon oil may be a good way to lure them to their bowl. In addition to having good taste, it is low in calories, rich in Omega 3 and Omega 6. Pour a net in the bowl of your cat and he should not be asked to come to eat. Note that this also works with rapeseed oil , but your feline may find it less palatable.

3. Add beer yeast

Cats crave beer yeast. In addition, it is very beneficial for their health since it helps to strengthen their coat, their claws, their intestinal flora and their immune system. Do not hesitate to sprinkle a little on the food kitty story to bait. A small piece of butter or a small piece of cheese can also replace the yeast of beer but will not have the same benefits on the health of your feline.

4. Prepare a broth

Nothing better than a broth of vegetables or homemade meat to decorate the food of his cat. If you cook, remember to keep the broth for your tomcat and pour it on his kibble to encourage him to eat.

5. Moisten his croquettes

Sometimes older cats, kittens or cats with dental problems can have a hard time chewing on their kibble. In this case, moisten them with a little warm water. On the other hand, your cat will have to consume them immediately, otherwise they will perish quickly.

For more information on Dog and Cat food click here.

Service Dogs & Housing – Know Your Rights

Did you know that you and your service dog are protected from housing discrimination? While there are several laws in place; not everyone will strive to put your interests first – which is why self-education is critical. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the different laws that apply to housing and service dogs and have your documentation ready when you are moving to a new residence.

Fair Housing Act

The Fair Housing Act (FHA) is a federal law that prevents discrimination against tenants in their homes. Even if a lease says, “no pets,” landlords are required to make what is called a “reasonable accommodation” to allow pets who serve as assistance dogs. Breed and weight restrictions do not apply to assistance or service animals and pet fees should be waived.

All types of housing, including public housing, are covered by the FHA except: 1. Rental dwellings of four or less units, where one unit is occupied by the owner; 2. Single family homes sold or rented by the owner without the use of a broker; and 3. Housing owned by private clubs or religious organizations that restrict occupancy in housing units to their members.

Rehabilitation Act of 1973

Section 504 of this act protects service dogs and owners that live in dwellings that receive federal funding, such as public or subsidized housing. Landlords who accept only Section 8 rental assistance are not subject to Section 504. Protection under this section is contingent upon: 1. Tenant has a disability; 2. Tenant was excluded from and denied participation in services, programs, and activities; 3. Exclusion was because of disability; and 4. Reasonable accommodation would not constitute an undue burden or fundamental alteration.

ADA Act of 1990

Title II of this act refers to housing owned by state or local government, regardless of federal financial assistance, such as public housing authorities. There are several contingencies, including: 1. Tenant has a disability; 2. Tenant was excluded from and denied participation in services, programs, and activities; 3. Exclusion was because of disability; and 4. Reasonable accommodation would not constitute an undue burden or fundamental alteration.

One thing to remember with the ADA is that emotional support dogs are not considered a “reasonable accommodation” as they are excluded by lack of training from 28 CFR 36.104, the definition of “service animal,” under the Americans with Disabilities Act. Instead, emotional support animals are covered by the Air Carrier Access Act and the Fair Housing Act.

What Documentation Will You Need?

Provide your landlord with a brief personal statement explaining that you are asking for “reasonable accommodation to keep your dog who functions as an assistance or service animal.” Under the ADA, landlords are required to allow your trained service dog to live with you regardless of their pet policy. If your dog is an emotional support animal, you may need a letter from your doctor/therapist outlining your disability and explaining how your dog is needed to help you cope with this disability and/or improves its symptoms.

Landlords must agree to a reasonable accommodation request if the disability claim is true and if the request does not create a hardship on the landlord or other tenants. If your request for a reasonable accommodation is denied by the landlord, you have the right to request that a government agency investigate your claim that the landlord is discriminating against you.

Registering Your Service Dog

Registering with a service dog registry will provide you with further proof and make your “working dog” more recognizable. Although not required by law, having identifying accessories for your service dog or emotional support animal makes your life easier by helping to eliminate the hassle and questioning you may face bringing your service dog or emotional support animal with you in public. We recommend USA Service Dogs because they are the #1 rated online registry with over 14,000 5-Stars reviews. They offer an easy 3-step straightforward registration process for your service dog.

By registering with USA Service Dogs today, you can save 30% off your custom Registration Kit, which will include a high-quality ID card, a service dog certificate, vest, collar, leash and more. Please visit USA Service Dogs for your service dog registration.

6 Training Tips For Socializing Your Puppy

Puppy Training

Proper socialization should be one of your top priorities when it comes to training your new puppy. One of the best things you can do for your new dog is to help them positively introduce them to different people, places and dogs.

1- The importance of socializing your puppy

Socialization is often seen as a form of workout, it’s actually one of the first things you should start with your new puppy. Dogs go through what some call a period of impression from birth to around 14 weeks of age, during which time they are open to learning about the world around them and accepting new situations.

If you take the time to introduce your puppy to so many new situations, people, places and animals, it is much more likely that you will have a well-adjusted and calmer family dog ​​in the future. During this time, they need to learn new smells, images and sounds, all with a positive effect. They are not immune to fear at this age, but they are more likely to accept any situation they consider safe.

2- Do not socialize properly carries risks

The risk of not socializing your new puppy is high. When a dog is not socialized properly, he is more likely to fear new places, people and dogs afterwards.

Under socialized dogs, he can be timid and fearful, far from the fear of his owner. Some dogs face fear by becoming aggressive and responsive. Some will be closed by fear, hiding from all that is new or unknown. It is likely that others will attack and bar anything that moves. Some people will simply feel excited and excited by the new thing they see, this overabundance of energy can lead to fights with other dogs.

Of course, socialization is not a guarantee of good behavior, but it is one of the best investments you can make when your puppy is young and impressionable.

3- Health risks associated with socialization of puppies

Puppies are not fully vaccinated in the first 14 weeks, making them vulnerable to various diseases and infections. Due to the increased risks, certain precautions must be taken.

Instead of taking your puppy to the dog park, try to enroll your dog in a social class or puppy training. Puppy puppies are generally well organized and kept indoors, which decreases the likelihood of your dog being exposed to something dangerous.

4- Keep meetings controlled and positive

The goal of socialization is to make all these unique experiences positive. Although the dog park is a popular place to meet other dogs, it is not necessarily the best place to socialize with a puppy. This can be overwhelming for them and you have no control over what other dogs will do. Negative encounters or interactions can cause setbacks in terms of socialization.

To maintain positive interactions, people should give their dog a gift or a toy. Not all dogs are extroverted and friendly when they meet new dogs, so do not forget to ask permission before allowing your puppy to approach another dog.

5- Introduce your dog to different people, places and dogs

One of the keys to socialization is getting your dog to interact with a wide variety of people, dogs and places. Have you known dogs and people of all ages and sizes, and taken them to different places with pictures and sounds?

6- Make your dog used to receiving visitors

One of the best ways to socialize your puppy is to do it at home, inviting many guests. It is easier to control the environment in the house, and it is a good way to accustom your dog to different home visits.

Ask your friends and neighbors to bring their dogs to your home so they can meet and greet each other. Invite your family to watch the game and have your children bring their friends after school. Inviting people will help your dog get accustomed to receiving visitors.

Conclusion

The correct socialization of the puppy requires commitment on your part, but in the long run it is worth it. The socialization of your puppy will determine how they interact with the world around them. If you do it positively, you will end up with a calmer and safer dog.

Urinary Crystals in Cats: Treatment Options

Urinary Crystals in Cats

If your cat has been displaying symptoms of urinary tract disease and has been diagnosed with crystals, you are likely very keen to know what treatment options are available. Well, the treatment will depend on which type of crystal is involved, as the options are really quite different for each crystal type.

It is important to know if we are dealing with crystals alone, or if the crystals have developed into stones. In some cats, the stones that form are so big that they can actually be felt when the bladder is pressed on, though this is quite rare and most stones will be smaller than this. To determine if they are present or not, the vet will need to run a few more tests.

Typically, an ultrasound of the entire urinary tract (including kidneys, ureters and bladder) will be carried out. Most (though not all!) cats are tolerant enough for this to be done while they are awake, though they do need to have a large portion of their belly fur clipped. An ultrasound is a painless and simple procedure that rarely takes longer than ten minutes and can be performed in most general vet clinics.

Certain stones will show up better on an X-ray than an ultrasound and many cats will also have abdominal X-rays performed. Most kitties are too jumpy and nervous  to have X-rays performed conscious so will either be given a sedation or an anaesthetic. X-rays are particularly good at showing up ‘radiopaque’ stones and the vet will get a good idea of how many stones are present and how large they are.

Finding out what type of stone is present can be a real challenge. Though it would be reasonable to think that if the cat was proven to have struvite crystals on their urine exam that any stones present would also be struvite, this is not always the case. Depending on the crystals present and other factors, such as the urinary pH, we can make an educated guess as to which types of stone are present. In reality, the only way to know for sure is to remove a stone and have it examined by a laboratory.

Struvite crystals and stones are typically treated conservatively. Any underlying infection would need to be treated with a course of antibiotics (which have been based on culture and sensitivity) and the urine should be re-analysed when the course is finished to ensure the infection has been eliminated and is not grumbling on.

As soon as struvite crystals have been diagnosed, a prescription diet should be started. It is critical that this diet be the only source of food, as supplementing it with a different brand of kibble or some yummy treats will only negate the benefits. This can mean that cats who normally have access to the outdoors need to be kept in for a while as if they were to find something to munch on outside, they could delay the effects of the treatment. Similarly, if there are other pets in the household, they will need to be fed separately. This may mean the use of ‘microchip feeders’ in multi-cat households.

While urinary diets are available in wet and dry forms, most vets will recommend feeding the wet form if the cat will accept it. This is to encourage further dilution of the urine, ensuring more crystals do not form. Luckily, most cats prefer the taste of wet food.

Owners are also advised to encourage as much water drinking as possible, which may mean the purchase of water fountains. Water can be mixed in to the diet, even if it is already a wet diet.

One of the best-known diets used for eliminating struvite stones and crystals is called Hill’s C/D. This food is the preferred treatment choice of many vets and is nutritionally balanced but limited in the ingredients that can cause crystal formation, such as Magnesium, Phosphorous and Calcium. It is designed to keep urinary pH at optimal levels, preventing it from becoming too acidic or too alkaline. Many vets will monitor this over time, ensuring the urinary pH is staying where it should. You can read more on catcareadvices.com

Once the diet has been started, struvite crystals may dissolve in as little as a few weeks, though often it will take several months for them to completely disappear. The general consensus is that the diet should continue for at least one month after the stones no longer show up on X-ray, and many recommend feeding it life-long.

Dealing with Calcium Oxalate crystals and stones can be a little more of a challenge. Interestingly, these crystals used to be extremely rare but now account for roughly half of feline urinary crystals. Many believe that this is due to cats eating commercial foods that acidify the urine. If the crystals form in to stones, diets are not effective at dissolving them and they require more drastic intervention.

If the stones have formed within the bladder, the surgery is relatively straight forward and consists of making an incision and removing the offensive material. However, sometimes the stones can be sitting in the kidney or ureter, which can be a real issue. In these situations, cats may be referred to specialist surgeons with more experience in complicated cases.

In some patients, stones will lodge in the urethra and cause a dangerous blockage. Cats will be unable to produce urine or will only produce it in very small amounts. Some of these stones that have lodged may be small enough that they can be guided back into the bladder safely, relieving the blockage and allowing the cat to urinate once again.

Vets can perform a technique called ‘retro hydropulsion’, whereby the stones are encouraged to move back into the bladder via pressure and the use of saline under high-power. As this can be quite uncomfortable, it is either performed under a heavy sedation or general anaesthetic. Once the stones have been moved from the riskier place to the bladder and the cat can pass urine again, the stones can then be dealt with. So, if the stones are calcium oxalate, a surgery will still be on the cards. Surgery to remove stones from the bladder is far safer than one which involves making an incision in the small urethra. If the stones are struvite, this procedure can mean that a surgery to remove the blockage is unnecessary and we have now bought some time for the diet to work.

More recently in the veterinary world, there has been a lot of interest in ‘Lithotripsy’, a method that is used a lot in human medicine. Sound waves are applied externally in order to break up the stones. Sometimes, laser lights and electricity are also involved. Most GP vets will not have access to this treatment, though several specialist centres are now able to provide it. This may be a useful option in cats that are not good surgical candidates.

Another technique that may be available in some specialist centres or universities is stone retrieval via cystoscopy. This is a sterile procedure that requires a general anaesthetic and is usually performed by a vet with special training. No incision is required, so the recovery time is very quick and the risks involved are minimal. A long instrument called a cystoscope is passed into the urethra and up into the bladder, collecting the small stones and removing them, without the need for an invasive surgery. During this procedure, vets also have the ability to visually assess the inside of the urinary tract, which can provide some useful information. Sometimes, anatomical defects, strictures or masses are found, so this can also be a useful diagnostic procedure. Vets have the option of taking a biopsy of any unusual tissue, which can be a very useful way of telling the difference between chronic inflammation and neoplasia.

In male cats in particular, this procedure is particularly tricky as they have such narrow tubes, but it is possible with very small instruments. Sometimes, a laser will be used at the same time as this procedure so that the stones can be broken up, allowing for easier removal.

It is well-known that cats who have formed crystals and stones in the past are likely to form them again. Due to this, owners are encouraged to be pro-active in their prevention at all times. Our next (and final) article in this series focuses on how to keep crystals and stones away for good.

Choosing The Right Harness or Collar For Your Dog

Harness or Collar for Your Dog

Entering an animal shop, a wide range of choices is offered to us in terms of necklace, harness or other tool to walk pony. How to choose the one that best suits your dog properly on a leash?

What about choke collars, mesh or electric?

The choke collar (necklace or chocker):

As its name suggests, this endless sliding dog collar strangles the dog. It was originally a traditional training tool that was only used when training the dog by professional punishment and not on a daily walk. It only works if the dog is punished or strangled hard enough; enough pain is inflicted on him so that he does not reproduce a behavior considered undesirable. This method is to be avoided because not only it inflicts pain but also it does not teach the dog what he should do, he just teaches him to avoid pain.

The spades necklace (the prong):

It is actually a necklace choker, provided with pikes turned towards the neck of the dog for a more pronounced effect. It is used in much the same way and has the same harmful effects on the dog both behaviorally and physically.

These two collars have physical consequences that can be disastrous, the scientific data is still in progress but it would be eye problems, the esophagus or the trachea until neurological problems due to strangulation.

The electric collar (the e-collar):

This necklace does exactly what its name says: it delivers electric shocks to the dog. There are several types of necklaces, the one that you control with a joystick and the automatic that triggers when the dog barks for example. This necklace is illegal in many parts of the world and many associations are fighting to ban its use considered inhumane.

Why not use these collars with your dog?

In addition to sore the dog, they create fear, anxiety, acquired helplessness, but also bad associations; for example if I strangle or zap my dog ​​that barks after another dog, the association that does it does not necessarily stop barking but: ‘when I see a dog, I hurt’. The consequences are multiple: my dog ​​is afraid of other dogs, my dog ​​goes out in front of other dogs, my dog ​​wants to attack other dogs: all these results are undesirable in addition to undermining the relationship you have with your companion, that’s why, among other things, we do not recommend them.

Better tools to train your dog:

The flat necklace:

This is the most popular necklace but can, in itself, strangle the dog too if it pulls. Learning to walk on a leash is necessary to avoid the physical damage it can cause due to strangulation, calling a canine educator is necessary for a walk in flat collar without disastrous consequences.

It is often used to put the dog’s medals for example; it can be a beautiful fashion accessory too!

The martingale necklace:

It is traditionally used for dogs that have heads smaller than their necks (greyhounds for example). The martingale should never be used as a choke, but adjusted like a flat collar. It has the same effects as the latter, other than the dog cannot leave it if he backs down by lowering his head. Shelters usually use this type of collar to avoid losing their dog.

The halti (the harness of head):

This type of head harness may be useful in some cases, but it must be used with care. Although not all scientific data is counted, the halti could damage your dog’s cervix during a sudden shock (lashing, sudden blow). What we often see are dogs scratching themselves to remove it (on the ground, against people’s legs).

Indeed, wearing a head harness should be an apprenticeship (how to wear it, wear it and love to wear it). A qualified dog trainer can help you introduce your dog to avoid discomfort.

The different types of dog harness

Several types of harnesses are available, the one with a tie on the back, the one for the car, that of canicross, the one with a frontal attachment or even that which encloses the dog when it pulls.

Harnesses that grip the dog

They are to be avoided because they have the same effect as a choke collar and the friction may damage the epidermis of your companion.

Harnesses tied in the back

Just like canicross harnesses, they allow your dog a good forward pull, it is possible that he pulls more on a leash, a course is in order!

When choosing your harness, take the time to adjust it to your dog to avoid any friction and / or potential injury. It should be noted that some dogs learn to let go of this type of harness by moving back and down their heads!

Harnesses with frontal attachment

They allow you to have easier control because by pulling, the dog naturally turns towards you. On the other hand, some dogs learn to pull anyway, so an educator can help you teach your companion to walk on a leash.

If your dog has short hair, prefer a padded model to avoid scratches.

In summary:

Choosing a good walking tool is essential for the comfort and well-being of your dog and yours as well. It is good to remember that it is not natural for a dog to walk on a leash and that learning is necessary for a pleasant walk!

Flat collars and harnesses (except those that grip the dog) are preferable to coercive tools such as chokers or spikes. If your dog pulls a lot, a harness with a frontal attachment and a little workout should allow you to relieve the joints of your hands during walks! The brands Canine Equipment, Ruff wear and Easy-Walk make good models.

An educator can help you get around the situation quickly so that you can enjoy a dog-friendly ride while getting you to the right tool for you.

Different Breeds of Broilers Chicken

Chicken Breeds

Chicken breeds fall into three basic categories – egg producers, meat birds and dual-purpose types. Broilers chickens, in the second category, were designed to mature quickly, ready to market as early as 6 weeks of age. The commercial market depends on a few breeds of broilers chicken or types. These birds do not make good pets if you are not in the market for meat. They are not bred for longevity, and size creates problems in older birds.

Cornish Crosses

The most common type of broilers chicken are not a real breed but is a cross between white rock and Cornish chickens. Cornish man / white cross rock weigh about 4.5 pounds at the age of 6 weeks. If kept around five more weeks, they weigh about 9.5 pounds. The females of this cross, known as Cornish game hens, grow more slowly, weighing about 2.5 pounds at the age of 5 weeks. Like other white feathered meat birds, their carcasses are not discolored areas on the skin due to feather growth.

Broilers Chicken Red

Red broilers chicken, or Red Label, does not ripen as fast as the Cornish goes through. It takes them twice as long – 12 weeks – to reach the size of the market. Males reach maturity at about 7 pounds and females at 5 pounds. If you want to raise broilers chicken outdoors rather than in an indoor facility, red broilers chicken make a good choice. As their name suggests, these birds have softened various shades of red, and some have dark tails. Hens produce large brown eggs, but do not go brooders. This means that you have to incubate the fertilized eggs if you want to raise another generation of red broilers chicken.

Delaware Broilers Chicken

Developed in the 1940s, the Delaware chickens were given to cross Rhode Island Red hens with Barred Plymouth Rock roosters. At one point, Delawares have been widely used in the broiler industry, but the conservation of livestock – which monitors rare breeds – lists now threatened. Black white sports organizations The Delawares except on the neck and tail. Early mature males, tip the scales to 8 pounds; hens are smaller at 6 pounds. Unlike other broiler breeds, Delawares are also useful for small-scale egg production.

Other breeds

Other breeds or types of broilers chicken are usually Cornish crosses. You can find these chicks for sale in large scale hatcheries across the country. A relatively new breed is Rosambro, a chicken that looks like a red broiler with faster growth. Expect a mature Rosambro between the ages of 8 to 10 weeks. Other common meat breeds do not grow as quickly as broilers chicken.